Our back-to-back cruise on Holland America’s ms Zuiderdam started in San Diego, cruised many ports in Mexico then stopped in Guatemala, Panama City, transited the Panama Canal, to Cartagena, Columbia , Half Moon Cay, Bahamas and finally finished in Miami, Florida.
Few cities in the Americas carry history as visibly as Cartagena de Indias. Founded by the Spanish in 1533, it quickly became one of the most important ports in the New World, a gateway through which the riches of the continent flowed toward Europe. That wealth made it a prize worth defending, and its formidable walls tell the story: the Murallas, the great colonial fortifications that encircle the old city, were built over two centuries and still stand today, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Towers, bastions, and the monumental Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a massive hilltop fortress completed in the 17th century bear witness to an era of pirates, naval sieges, and imperial rivalry. The Inquisition, too, left its mark: the Palace of the Inquisition on Plaza Bolívar once served as the seat of the Holy Office, and its stone facade remains one of the finest examples of colonial baroque architecture in Latin America.
The old walled city, known as the Ciudad Amurallada, is the heart of any visit to Cartagena. Within its narrow cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses drip with bougainvillea, and wrought-iron balconies frame views of quiet plazas. The Plaza de los Coches and Plaza de la Aduana are wonderful spots to linger, while the Getsemaní neighborhood once a working-class district, now a vibrant hub of street art, cafés, and nightlife offers a grittier, more contemporary energy. Just outside the walls, the Bocagrande district stretches along the coast as Cartagena’s modern face: high-rise hotels, restaurants, and a beach promenade that hums with activity into the late evening. Day trips to the Rosario Islands, a short boat ride away, reward visitors with crystalline Caribbean waters and coral reefs.
Hip Getsemani centers on Holy Trinity Square, where laid-back groups gather to drink beer, listen to street musicians and snack on grilled arepas from nearby stalls. Lively pizzerias and casual bistros serving Colombian staples line the surrounding streets, which are also known for their vivid murals. Brewpubs, cocktail bars and the famed salsa bar Cafe Havana, keep the party vibe going till the early hours.
Cartagena’s culture is as rich as its architecture. The city is the birthplace of magical realism in the popular imagination. Gabriel García Márquez spent much of his life here, and the atmosphere of the old city, languid and dreamlike in the tropical heat, seems to breathe directly from the pages of his novels. A small museum in Getsemaní is dedicated to his life and legacy. The local cuisine is equally compelling: arepa de huevo (egg-stuffed corn fritters) from street vendors, fresh ceviche, and the bold flavors of the Caribbean coast define the food scene. Rooftop bars above the old city offer spectacular sunset views over the terracotta rooftops and the sea beyond, a fitting close to any day of exploration.
Practically speaking, Cartagena is best explored on foot within the walled city, though the heat can be intense from December through April. Early mornings and evenings are the most pleasant times to walk. The city is served by Rafael Núñez International Airport, with connections throughout Colombia and internationally. Spanish is the language of daily life, though English is spoken in many hotels and tourist areas. Above all, Cartagena rewards slow travel: the kind that lingers over a coffee in a shaded courtyard, follows the sound of cumbia music down an alley, and surrenders to the rhythm of a city that has been captivating visitors for nearly five hundred years.
Stuart Taylor of HighlanderImages Photography has been making images for over 40 years focusing on Asia with a documentary/photojournalistic style.
Stuart is available for a variety of assignments in subject areas of photojournalism, commercial, architectural, real estate, industrial, interior design, corporate, urbex, adventure, wilderness, and travel.