We departed from Lhasa, Tibet and headed west towards Yamdrok Lake (Yamzho Yumco) where we planned to camp for one night and then on to the town of Shigatse for one night before making the last part of our journey up to Rongphu Monastery just below Mount Everest.
The road initially followed the Yarlung Zangbo River as we left Lhasa offering some pleasant views with the mountains in the background.
After this stop by the river and before we headed up over the steep pass towards Yamdrok Lake we needed to stop to have some lunch. By chance we decided to try a small local teahouse/restaurant in the village of Jiangtangzhen.
Getting out of the van the first thing I noticed was group of local men huddled around a small table playing a dice game. It was fascinating to watch them play, laugh and gamble. They used small cowrie shells to gamble with and took turns to turn over the dice onto a small circular wooden base.
The restaurant was a small simple building but had a wonderful doorway with a beautifully ornate curtain. It served some simple local food but importantly sold some local beer.
Our group squeezed into the small teahouse and the ladies started to order a few simple local dishes for lunch as we all sat at the small low tables.
I ordered a local beer, as I usually do when travelling in China, and as I did so noticed an old man sitting having a beer himself. He was a fascinating character so I sat next to him and joined him for a few bottles of beer as we had lunch. We could not speak a word to each other but there was a certain rapport there and we enjoyed a few cold ones as we glanced at each other knowingly and had a few laughs.
The man had an incredible face, full of character with dark skin and wrinkles. His dress sense and style was incredible and he sported a wonderful hat with a feather which I eventually tried on.
As I bonded with this local old man I managed to capture some good portrait shots which I think showed the incredible details in his face and dress and highlighted a little of what his life must have been like in this remote part of Tibet.
Opposite the old man was sitted an old woman (which I thought may have been his wife) and although she was rather camera shy I managed to get a few shots of her. After she ate her simple plate of noodles she started to snort some tobacco-like substance through her nose and then blow smoke out of her mouth – incredible!
We left the teahouse after a good lunch and a few enjoyable beers. I paid for the beers for myself and my new friend and waved him goodbye. These are the special moments that make these type of trip so worthwhile, touching on just a small part of other people’s lives.
This wonderful visit to this small remote teahouse made me think of the great song by Donald Fagen: Teahouse On The Tracks so a link to the song and the lyrics are quoted below:
https://open.spotify.com/embed/track/0FBXQ9Qn8mnqxAwUvELEjm
Teahouse On The Tracks
by Donald Fagen
Album : Kamakiriad (1993)
Out on the fringe
Where the shallows meet the scratchlands
Out where hope and the highway ends
You can park or cruise
Both ways you lose
This is Flytown now my friend
You take a walk on Bleak Street
Tonight could be the night you crash
Then you turn and stop
Start to fingerpop
You think you hear a wailin’ combo
You climb a flight of twisted stairs
Some cat says buddy
If you’ve got eyes
To rhythmatize
Bring your flat hat and your ax
‘Cause tonight at ten
We’ll be workin’ again
At the Teahouse on the TracksThe Siegel Bros. were slammin’ out a baion
So slick it should have been a crime
Irene and Flocko and little Amy Khan
Lead off the big front line
The crowd was bouncin’ in sync with the pulse
You get a case of party feet
(Then the room turns bright
And fills up with light)
And then from somewhere deep inside you
Some frozen stuff begins to crack
Better hurryIf you’ve got eyes
To rhythmatize
Bring your flat hat and your ax
‘Cause tonight at ten
We’ll be workin’ again93
At the Teahouse on the TracksTake the T-Line to Bleak and Divine
Just above the Good Time Flats
It’s your last chance
To learn how to dance
At the Teahouse on the TracksOn Sunday morning
You’re back at the wheel
You’re feelng calm and crisp and strongIf you’ve got eyes
To rhythmatize
Bring your flat hat and your ax
‘Cause tonight at ten
We’ll be workin’ again
At the Teahouse on the TracksIf it feels right
Just drive for the light
That’s the groovessential facts
Someday we’ll all meet at the end of the street
At the Teahouse on the Tracks
Passionate Photographer …. Lost in Asia
Stuart Taylor of HighlanderImages Photography has been making images for over 30 years and can offer a diverse range of photo imaging services with a focus on Asia and a documentary/photojournalistic style. These services include planning and executing a photo shoot on location but importantly all the post-processing and image preparation needed for the specific finished media format required by the customer. Stuart’s experience and knowledge in all of these aspects makes HighlanderImages Photography a one-stop-shop for a comprehensive and professional image production service.
Stuart can be available for a variety individual assignments or projects and he specialises in areas such as photojournalism, commercial, architectural, real estate, industrial, interior design, corporate, urbex, adventure, wilderness and travel photography.
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E-Mail : staylor@highlanderimages.com
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